FAQs – Long Beach Muffler

General Exhaust Questions

1. When do I know I have an exhaust problem?

Most of the time an exhaust problem is obvious by the excessive sound the vehicle makes. Sometimes it could be a small rattle or a broken hanger that causes the system to hang low. A qualified exhaust shop should check the exhaust system out at least once a year. Most shops do not charge for an inspection of the exhaust and it normally takes less than 5 minutes to inspect.

2. How long should my exhaust last?

On older vehicles a good rule of thumb is 5 to 8 years. On newer vehicles (now equipped with stainless steel) average life is 7 to 10 years.

Catalytic Converter Questions

1. I failed my smog test and the mechanic said I need a Catalytic Converter how can I be sure?

Check your emission test results. As a general rule if you failed on the Carbon Monoxide (CO) this is usually an indication of a bad Oxygen Sensor. If you failed on the Hydrocarbons (HC) this is usually an indication of a bad Catalytic Converter. If you failed on the Oxides of Nitrogen (NOX) this is usually an indication of a bad Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve.

2. I here a rattle coming from my Catalytic Converter does this mean it is bad?

Yes, this is an indication that the inside substrate is starting to break apart. An overheated Catalytic Converter was likely the cause of the failure. This problem should be taken care of right away. If the substrate breaks down further it could plug the exhaust and could leave you stranded on the side of the road..

3. My check engine light came on and my mechanic said the Catalytic Converter was the problem. How can I be sure?

This has been a tricky problem for most mechanics and exhaust shops, When diagnosing the problem with a scan tool. The code that comes up for an inefficient Catalytic Converter is a PO420. This is an indication that the Catalytic Converter is not doing its job properly but we have found that this code could also occur if the Oxygen Sensor (O2 Sensor) or sensors become faulty or lazy, We have also found that on the Jeep Cherokee, Subaru Outback, Ford Explorer and Honda Accord, the factory tolerances that set off the check engine light are very tight and an engine that has carbon buildup in the combustion chamber will bring up the cylinder head temperature which in turn brings up the Oxides of Nitrogen (NOX) and will set the light off. In these cases we recommend a product on the market that has been working well to cut down on the carbon build up and will reduce the dreaded check engine light and PO420 code. The product is called BG44K- Total Deposit Control Fuel Additive and can be purchased from us at our product link. A good rule of thumb here is to make sure all components that we have mentioned here have been checked before the Catalytic Converter is replaced. There is nothing worse than spending hard earned money on a Catalytic Converter and find out that the check engine light problem still exists.

4. What is the difference between an OBD-I Catalytic Converter and an OBD-II Catalytic Converter?

OBD stands for On Board Diagnostic. There are 2 versions. OBD-I and OBD-II. In 1970 Congress passed the Clean Air Act and established the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). This started a series of graduated emission standards and requirements for maintenance of vehicles for extended periods of time. To meet these standards, manufacturers turned to electronically controlled fuel feed and ignition systems. Sensors measured engine performance and adjusted the systems to provide minimum pollution. These sensors were also accessed to provide early diagnostic assistance. At first there were few standards and each manufacturer had their own systems and signals. In 1988, the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) set a standard connector plug and set of diagnostic test signals. The EPA adapted most of their standards from the SAE on-board diagnostic programs and recommendations. This is considered OBD-I. OBD-II is an expanded set of standards and practices developed by SAE and adopted by the EPA and CARB (California Air Resources Board) for implementation by January 1, 1996. OBD-II provides a universal inspection and diagnosis method to be sure the car is performing to OEM standards. While there is argument as to the exact standards and methodology employed, the fact is there is a need to reduce vehicle emitted pollution levels in our cities, and we have to live with these requirements. All cars built since January 1, 1996 have OBD-II systems. Manufacturers started incorporating OBD-II in various models as early as 1994. Some early OBD-II cars were not 100% compliant.

Performance Exhaust Questions

1. What is a Performance Exhaust?

A performance exhaust is a free flowing exhaust that has a more aggressive sound. A free flowing exhaust will increases horsepower and increases fuel economy. This is accomplished by installing a free flow or larger diameter core muffler and sometimes-larger diameter pipes.

2. Will I get better gas mileage with a Performance Exhausts?

YES, a better performing engine uses fuel more efficiently, if driving conditions and tendencies are similar. However, it is not a guarantee. Diesel exhaust for trucks will see the biggest gains due to our systems' dropping exhaust gas temperatures over 150 degrees.

3. How much horsepower can I expect to gain?

It's different for every car, but typically expected gains are in the average range of 10%.
Replacing the muffler/exhaust with a performance exhaust will help your engine increase power by being able to expel exhaust gases quicker. This creates less workload for the engine, makes it run more efficient, and results in better power.

4. Is bigger exhaust better?

Don’t be fooled! Bigger is not better! Many people think that having the biggest diameter pipe is the best way to make power. Not true. Due to a variety of factors, extensive testing is required. Our recommended systems yield optimum power increases. It is a fine line to reduce backpressure while maintaining good exhaust velocity. It is not about getting the biggest pipe, it is about getting a more efficient pipe diameter while maintaining exhaust velocity. There has to be a balanced design to enhance the maximum engine output, exhaust gas velocity, and sound. For example, imagine blowing air through a straw (comparing it to a smaller diameter pipe). This would take time to release all the air from your mouth, and you would feel pressure in your mouth while doing so. Now imagine blowing air through a paper towel roll (comparing it to a larger diameter pipe). You will relieve all your air much faster and feel little or no air pressure in your mouth because of the larger capacity of the tube. This is why it is important to get the correct size piping in order to relieve backpressure while maintaining thermal efficiency.

Use the guide below when calculating pipe size for custom exhaust work. Keep in mind that the goal is to improve exhaust flow. In most cases, just changing the restrictive OEM muffler and replacing it with the same size straight-through Performance muffler will do the job. To reduce additional backpressure, the OEM exhaust tubing can be replaced with mandrel-bent tubing of the same size or one size up from the OEM. As a general rule, you can enlarge the pipe diameter of your OEM exhaust system by 1/4 to 1/2-inch to increase your horsepower. However, any additional increase in pipe diameter is likely to decrease your performance; specifically, low end torque.

ENGINE SIZE	HORSEPOWER	MUFFLER INLET/OUTLET
ENGINE SIZE	HORSEPOWER	Single Exhaust	Dual Exhaust
150-200 CID	100 to 150	2″ to 2-1/4″	2″
200-250 CID	100 to 200	2-1/4″ to 2-1/2″	2″ to 2-1/4″
250-300 CID	150 to 250	2-1/2″ to 3″	2″ to 2-1/2″
300-350 CID	200 to 350	2-1/2″ to 3″	2-1/4″ to 2-1/2″
350-400 CID	250 to 550	3″ to 4″	2-1/2″ to 3″
Use as a general guide for engine size and performance

Use as a general guide for engine size and performance